A couple of years ago, a photographer friend showed me some pictures he’d taken of a place he called Fly Geyser. He said it was an amazing site that was located about two hours north of Reno on the edge of the Black Rock Desert.

The photos showed three, large green and orange colored mounds of some kind of rock with water shooting out of the top. He said the geyser was located on the Fly Ranch, which is private property (don’t trespass), but could easily be seen from the nearby road.

After seeing the remarkable images of a trio of travertine cones spewing hot water about four or five feet into the air, I knew I had to find this place.

So recently, I took a drive north of Reno to the small town of Gerlach. My map indicated that Fly Geyser was about 20 miles north of Gerlach via State Route 34.

The geyser isn’t difficult to find. The plumes of hot water that continuously pour from the top of the mounds can be seen from miles away. Additionally, once I got closer I could see the distinctive shades of green and rust on the tufa rock pillars that seem to sit out in a field of tall grass.

I’d researched the geyser before heading up there and found that it’s not a natural phenomenon. The geyser was created accidentally in 1964, after a geothermal power company drilled a test well at the site. While the groundwater in the region turned out not to be sufficiently hot to be tapped for geothermal power, it did have a temperature of more than 200 degrees.

According to later newspaper reports, the well was either left uncapped or was improperly plugged. In either case, the scalding hot water was allowed to shoot from the well hole and calcium carbonate deposits began to form, growing several inches each year.

Jump forward several decades, and those deposits have become large mounds taller than an average-sized man that rise out of a field of tall reeds and grasses.

Scientists familiar with the geyser note that the green and reddish coloring on the outside of the mounds is the result of thermophilic algae, which flourishes in moist, hot environments.

Interestingly, the set of circumstances that created Fly Geyser in 1964 apparently occurred at least one time before. In about 1917, a well was drilled a few hundred feet north of the geyser. This well was also abandoned and, over time, a massive 10 to 12-foot calcium carbonate cone formed.

Today, no hot water flows from the older mound. It appears that the earlier geyser dried up when underground water was diverted to the newer one.

After I snapped a few shots, I headed back to Gerlach because my photographer pal had recommended that I stop at a diner called Bruno’s Country Club. He said that Bruno’s serves these delicious, round ravioli that are worth the trip up there.

He was right about both the geyser and the raviolis.—-Richard Moreno

Climbing down to Eagle Falls

We found some magnificent views!

One of the best places to appreciate the sublime beauty of Lake Tahoe is from Eagle Falls, located on the southwest end of the lake. In addition to offering magnificent views of nearby Emerald Bay, the falls are quite spectacular.

The falls are easy to find, located adjacent to State Route 89, about. To get there, you basically park in one of the nearby lots and walk toward the sound of rushing water.

Eagle Creek pours out of the trees from the western side of the highway and flows under the road. The creek spills over a steep, granite bench to Lake Tahoe below.

Because of the above average snowfall last winter, Eagle Falls is bigger than normal. In fact, I’ve never seen so much water in the falls. Water has spread over the rock shelf at the head of the falls, covering boulders and trees that are usually on dry land.

The creek’s waters are intensely cold and fresh. From the top, you can look over the edge and see the creek waters spilling down the hillside.

Last weekend, my son, daughter and I had a chance to marvel at this raging torrent of water. The creek poured over the rocks with such intensity that there was actually mist in the air.

Because of the size of the falls, we couldn’t jump over them (as in drier years) or easily wade through them. To get to the other side, we had to walk back to the highway, cross over the stream, then wind our way through the rocks on the opposite side of the creek to find the best viewing spots. But it was worth it.

As we sat on the rocks, listening to the rushing water and the birds, looking out at Emerald Bay and Fannette Island, we talked about how beautiful it was and how we could sit there forever.

What a great place.—-Richard Moreno

There’s a place at Lake Tahoe where we were able to look eye-to-eye with fish without getting wet.

The place is the Stream Profile Chamber at Lake Tahoe’s Taylor Creek Visitor Center on the lake’s southern shore. The center is located on Highway 89, about three miles north of the intersection of U.S. 50 and Highway 89.

The Stream Profile Chamber offers the chance to get an underwater view of Taylor Creek, one of the many natural streams that flow into Lake Tahoe.

Floor-to-ceiling glass windows in a special, underground exhibit present a one-of-a-kind view of the creek, which is home to trout, Kokanee Salmon, crayfish, frogs and a variety of water insects. In addition to offering a fish-eye perspective, the chamber contains displays describing the various fish, plants and animals found in or around the creek.

The chamber, however, is only part of the reason to visit the Taylor Creek facility, which is operated by the U.S. Forest Service. Several short trails wind through the area around the visitor center.

My favorite is the Rainbow Trail, a half-mile paved loop route that leads to the Stream Profile Chamber. This trail starts at the visitor center and soon leads into a small grove of quaking aspen. Interpretive signs along the way describe the natural history of the area. At about the halfway point, you reach Taylor Creek, a natural trout and salmon-spawning stream.

The creek is peaceful and beautiful as it meanders through the trees, heading toward Lake Tahoe. A wooden walkway has been built over the stream and affords a nice place to just stand and enjoy the lush surroundings.

The trail leads into the Stream Profile Chamber. Exiting out the other side, the trail continues into the trees before winding its way through green meadows and over several smaller streams.

If you look behind you on the trail, you can see majestic Mount Tallac in the background (it’s the mountain with the snow that is shaped like a giant cross on its southern face).

In the summer months, the Taylor Creek Visitor Center and Stream Profile Chamber are open daily from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. There is no admission charge.—-Richard Moreno

The sun was out, the Truckee was running the highest I’ve seen in years and there were lots of people strolling along the Truckee Riverwalk.

Last weekend, my wife, daughter and I decided to take a break from yard work and head to downtown Reno to enjoy the river. The incredible snowfall of the past winter is melting so there’s plenty of water running in the river, which winds through the center of the city.

In fact, the river is so high that the lowest steps on the West Street Plaza, behind the movie theaters, are underwater. We were fascinated watching how the ducks coped with the swiftly moving waters of the Truckee. A pair landed on the river, then fought mightily against the current as they swam to the opposite shore.

The kayakers, who never seem to be bothered by the weather and are on the river year-round, were practicing their maneuvers in the Whitewater Park area. As we leaned on the railing to watch the kayakers on the river, we listened to a young man with dreadlocks playing his drums. Nearby, a group of five young people kicked around a brightly-colored “hacky sack” footbag. A young woman bounced a tennis ball off a wall and her dog jumped into the river to catch it. Summer is almost here.

We crossed one of the wooden bridges that lead to Wingfield Park, passed the outdoor amphitheater and several folks sunbathing on the lawn, and continued to the south side of the river. We headed east on the Riverwalk, enjoying the sun, the river, the animal sculptures, and the small water features.

Ahead, we could hear piano music floating out of the Dreamer’s Coffeehouse. After grabbing a cup of coffee for my wife, we crossed the river at Virginia Street and looped back to our car. Our break was over. There was still yard work to be done.—Richard Moreno

An RVer stops to check out the Old Shoe Tree on U.S. 50, east of Reno

Recently, we decided to take a little road trip out U.S. 50, the so-called “Loneliest Road in America.”

After we passed through the farming town of Fallon (an hour east of Reno), we entered the area that’s been described as the Nevada Outback. Our drive took us through white-bleached alkali flats, past the giant 600-foot-high mound known as Sand Mountain (a popular off-roading spot), and miles of wide, open spaces.

About 15 miles east of Sand Mountain, near a place called Middlegate, we spotted a most unusual sight—a giant cottonwood tree beside the highway that was filled with hanging shoes. Hundreds of pairs of shoes, along with a few umbrellas, a couple of brassieres, and other items, have been tossed into the branches of the 70-foot tree.

Naturally, we pulled over to look at this Shoe Tree, snapped a couple of photos, and wondering why it had become burdened by so much footwear. I mean, what’s the story here?

Once we returned, I began researching the story of the Old Shoe Tree, as it’s called. While there seem to be several versions of the story, most agree that it all began about a decade ago when a newly married couple was driving along U.S. 50 and began to argue.

The couple apparently stopped under the tree. The new bride threatened to walk home so the husband took her shoes, tied the laces in a knot and threw them up into the tree. The husband drove to a nearby bar in Middlegate, where the bartender told him to go back to his bride and apologize.

The couple made up and drove away. A year later they stopped by to show off their first child, whose first pair of shoes are said to hang in the tree.

Over time, others saw the shoes in the cottonwood and began tossing their own footwear into its branches. These days, there are dozens of leather and canvas sneakers, oxfords, pumps, cowboy boots, wingtips, slippers, sandals, and other foot items hanging from the Old Shoe Tree.

In fact, you might say it’s a tree with plenty of sole—-Richard Moreno

Rock Point Mill site at Dayton State Park, about 40 miles southeast of Reno

Old storage room cut into the rock wall

Rock Point Mill ruins

Impressive foundations of the Rock Point Mill

Founded in the early 1850s after gold and silver were discovered in the area, Dayton is one of Nevada’s most historic mining communities. At the east edge of town, adjacent to Dayton State Park, are the remains of the Rock Point Mill, a remnant of Dayton’s mining glory days.

Charles C. Stevenson, who was Nevada’s governor from 1887 to 1890, built the mill in 1861. Constructed at a cost of about $75,000 (a considerable sum at the time), the mill had 40 stamps that crushed silver and gold ore carried over the mountain from Gold Hill via an elaborate tram system.

At the peak of the Comstock mining boom, the mill was enlarged to include 56 stamps and more than $170,000 in modern equipment. The mill was one of three important ore processing plants located in Dayton and was instrumental in the development of the Comstock mining district.

In 1909, the Rock Point Mill was destroyed in a fire, but its owners immediately rebuilt it using galvanized iron. The second mill remained in use until about 1920 when it was closed for good and dismantled.

Today, a couple of small wooden signs at the site offer a few details about the history of the mill. Many of the ruins date to the second mill built on the site, including the cement foundations. Others, such as the stone walls, date from the original mill, which was one of the first to process ore from the fabulous Comstock Lode.

You can wander the ruins, open to the public year round, via a series of marked trails. At the top of the hill overlooking the ruins is a large, round concrete structure that was once part of the mill complex. From there, you can get a marvelous view of the Dayton Valley.

At the base of the mill you can find a small rock hole (it looks like a cave) cut into the rock wall. Portions of a wooden wall and door frame the hole, which goes back about five feet.

The mill foundations are quite large and extensive. Climbing onto one of the concrete blocks, which are bigger than a person, gives some indication of the size of the mill’s buildings.

Surrounding the foundations are clusters of mature cottonwoods–very colorful in the fall–and nearby is the remnants of a small earthen and concrete dam that once must have captured water for use at the mill.

Dayton State Park is a picturesque spot located on the banks of the Carson River. It has tall, shady cottonwoods, developed picnic areas and a campground with 10 sites for tents or self-contained RVs. Additionally, the park offers drinking water, RV dump station, flush toilets, and picnic areas. It is open all year. For information call 775-687-5678.—Richard Moreno

Walking to the new wildlife observation platform at the south end of Washoe Lake State Park

View of the lake from the elevated platform

Playing in the sand at Washoe Lake State Park

Even during this time of year, when it can get a little cold, I like to sit and enjoy the magnificent views at Washoe Lake State Park.

To the northwest is Slide Mountain, a 9,600-foot slope with pine-covered sides and a distinctive half-face dusted with snow. To the east is the Virginia Range, which contain drier, more barren and smaller mountains.

All around me is Washoe Lake, a remnant of a prehistoric inland sea that once covered most of Northern Nevada. From where I’m sitting, I can see the reflection of Slide Mountain in the placid lake waters.

The native Washoe Indians once gave Slide Mountain a name that roughly translates as “mountain that falls down on itself.” About once every century–the last time was in 1983–Slide Mountain releases a wave of mud and rocks.

In fact, in the mid-19th century, humorist Mark Twain wrote about a fictitious legal battle between two ranchers–one wanted his house returned to him after a slide had deposited it on top of his neighbor’s dwelling.

Washoe State Park was created in 1977 to preserve the valley’s natural assets and provide a place for water sports enthusiasts. The park encompasses 8,053 acres and sits at an elevation of about 5,000 feet.

At the Main Area Campground in the center of the park (accessed from Lake Boulevard), Washoe Lake State Park has 49 campsites available on a first-come, first-serve basis. There is also an RV dump station, boat ramps, flush toilets, showers, drinking water, hiking trails, and picnic tables.

The park can accommodate tents or self-contained RVs (up to 45 feet in length) and has 10 RV pull-throughs. There are, however, no hookups for the RVs.

A one-third mile trail from the Main Area Campground winds through sand dunes and leads to the lake. Smaller, undeveloped trails lead around the lake.

A recent addition to the park is a raised, wooden viewing platform and interpretive displays adjacent to the wetlands at the south edge of the park. You’ll also find a coin-operated telescope on the platform, which allows you to scan the marsh looking for various birds and wildlife.

The displays point out that the marsh at the south end of the lake is popular with a variety of waterfowl, which you can occasionally spot, including cranes and herons.

Washoe Lake State Park is located 10 miles north of Carson City and 15 miles south of Reno via U.S. 395. It is open all year.

Admission to the park is $4 per person; $12 per night for a campsite. For park information, call 775-687-4319.—Richard Moreno

The wooden bridge over Evans Creek leads to the heart of the May Arboretum.

There’s nothing like a walk through the May Arboretum.

This week, the weather has turned a bit cooler but that doesn’t mean there aren’t pleasant, outdoor places to visit in the Reno area that don’t require skis or a four-wheel drive.

Indeed, one of the great things about visiting or living in Northern Nevada is that the bad weather doesn’t last forever and is always followed by nice, sunny days.

Which brings us back to our special place. It’s the one location in Reno where you’ll encounter a fragrant sumac, a Japanese yew or a patch of Mexican hats. All of those species of plants can be found at the Wilbur D. May Arboretum and Botanical Garden, part of the Ranch San Rafael Park complex northwest of the University of Nevada, Reno.

The May Arboretum is a virtual oasis of trees, flowers, shrubs and all things botanical. Hundreds of plants, including native species and more exotic varieties, can be found spread over the arboretum’s 12 acres.

What’s great about the arboretum is its overall peacefulness. Just minutes from downtown Reno, you can park and walk into lush, green gardens intersected by a gurgling stream. The trees are home to several dozen different varieties of birds including golden eagles, falcons, owls, ducks and geese.

The arboretum grounds are divided into more than a dozen different gardens and groves, each with a different theme or atmosphere.

A picturesque redwood bridge crosses Evans Creek, which winds through the arboretum. At several places along the creek, you’ll find quiet, shaded, grassy spots that are ideal for sitting and reading a book, picnicking, or just contemplating nature’s wonders.

The main trail continues northwest to several other groves of trees and leads up to the Irwin Overlook, located on the crest of the hill above the creek and arboretum. Interpretive signs describe the geology, plants and animal life of the region. This spot also offers a nice view of the entire park.

The Wilbur D. May Arboretum and Botanical Garden is open daily sunrise to sunset. There is no admission charge. The arboretum is located at Ranch San Rafael Park, 1502 Washington Street, in Reno. For more information call 775-785-4153.—Richard Moreno

Donner Summit Rainbow Bridge, built in 1926.

One of the historic railroad tunnels through the Sierra Nevada.

Magnificent views of Donner Lake.

Returning from Sacramento recently, we decided to check out the drive over Donner Summit via historic Old Donner Pass Road. This historic route runs parallel to Interstate 80 for about 11 miles.

Instead of racing through the mountains on the modern, four-lane freeway, this drive is considerably more leisurely, as we journeyed through beautiful, wooded alpine scenery, enjoying marvelous views of craggy peaks and cliffs.

Heading east toward Reno, we jumped onto the two-lane road at the turnoff at Soda Springs. After passing through some fairly developed areas filled with summer homes and roadside businesses, the road began to make a slow climb to the Sugar Bowl and Donner ski areas.

At the parking lot at Sugar Bowl, we stopped to catch a great view of the natural bowl-shaped landscape that gives the resort its name. The two tallest peaks at each end of the bowl are Mount Lincoln and Mount Disney (the latter named in honor of Walt Disney, the original developer of the Sugar Bowl ski resort in 1939).

A bit farther up the road, we spotted the west portal of the Donner Summit Railroad Tunnel, a 1,659-foot-long passage that was constructed in 1867 for trains traveling through the mountains.

The tunnel, now abandoned, was used for about 130 years by the Central Pacific, Southern Pacific, Union Pacific and Amtrak trains. These days, the trains travel through adjacent snow sheds rather than the original tunnel. We took special note of the stone embankments below the train tracks, which were hand-built by Chinese laborers in the late 1860s.

The road continued to 7,088-foot Donner Pass. I pulled off the road again so that I could look out over the steep eastern face of the pass and see the glimmering jewel known as Donner Lake.

Continuing east on the road, I arrived at the very picturesque Donner Summit Rainbow Bridge. This reinforced concrete arch bridge was built in 1926 (and restored in 1996) and was originally part of the historic Lincoln Highway, the first transcontinental road in the U.S.

The story of Old Donner Pass Road, however, predates even the Lincoln Highway. In 1844, the Murphy-Townsend-Stephens Party, one of the earliest emigrant wagon trains, blazed a trail through the area on its way to California.

A later emigrant group, the tragic Donner Party, however, gave its name to the pass after it was trapped at the lake below during the winter of 1846-47.

These days the interstate has taken away most of the auto traffic but the road remains a special drive, including for many bicyclists. The rugged rock cliffs surrounding the bridge are also popular with rock-climbers and hikers.

From the bridge, it was about six miles to Donner Lake, a scenic body of water that offers sailing, jet skiing, boating, fishing and swimming. The road curved around the north side of the lake through a forest of condos and summer homes.

At the east edge of the lake was the Donner Memorial State Park, which has a small museum commemorating the ill-fated Donner Party. About a mile from the state park was the town of Truckee, where we reconnected with the interstate and continued on to Reno, about 30 miles east.—Richard Moreno

A string of ducks–a mother and three, fuzzy offspring–swim upriver in a line, each weaving perfectly to the movement of the one ahead.

Tall cottonwoods and willows provide a shaded and protected habitat for ducks, geese, herons, muskrats, kestral falcons, doves, beavers, squirrels and other creatures not usually seen in the rapidly developing Truckee Meadows.

The setting is the Oxbow Nature Study Area, a unique wildlife and plant preserve located on the Truckee River at the end of Dickerson Road in west Reno. To reach the area, drive west on Second Street, past Keystone Avenue, then turn left on Dickerson Road.

The study area is dedicated to preserving the plant and animal life once found in plentiful supply in the Truckee Meadows. To that end, visitors can wander on more than two miles of trails marked with interpretive signs.

Many first time visitors to the Oxbow Area think they’re heading in the wrong direction since Dickerson Road passes aging warehouses, apartments and a large trailer park complex. But at the road’s end, is a parking lot that is the beginning of the nature area.

The refuge serves as a peaceful retreat from the hustle of everyday life. The path to the right of the parking area is a good place to begin a visit since it includes an elevated wooden platform that affords an overview of the entire park.

Interpretive signage explains a variety of things, including, the Truckee River system, the river’s water flow, the purposes of a beaver lodge, the native flora and fauna and how the “riparian” habitat nurtures certain types of plants and animals.

The main trail continues west through small groves of tall trees and grassy open areas that contain many of the elements that make the area’s environment so unique–such as sagebrush growing adjacent to thick cottonwoods. The path winds through the jungle-thick vegetation, which includes wormwood, horsetails, poison hemlock, stinging nettles, cattails, bulrush and wild rose. If you look closely, you can even find giant mushrooms growing at the base of some of the plants.

Interpretive signs explaining such things as how cottonwoods can get sick (e.g. beavers can chew them up, which is why so many trees in the area have chicken wire around their base).

A few wooden benches along the way provide places to relax, listen to the soothing sounds of the bubbling Truckee River and contemplate the beautiful surroundings. Tucked into the overgrowth are several marked marsh and pond areas, home to a variety of waterfowl. Cattails and grass indicate their locations.

Guided nature walks of the area are conducted regularly with various area schools. The public is invited to join any of the school tours. For more information about scheduled tours contact the Reno Parks and Recreation Department, 775-334-3808.

–Richard Moreno