Following in the Footsteps of Mark Twain
C Street in Virginia City
St. Mary’s in the Mountains Church
One of Virginia City’s fudge shopsThe recent Virginia City Camel Races got us thinking about taking a drive to the historic mining town that is about a half-hour south of Reno to just wander the wooden sidewalks and steep side streets.We head up Geiger Grade to Virginia City, which, according to legend was named when one of its founders stumbled, broke a bottle of whiskey he was carrying, and christened the town in honor of his home state of Virginia.Virginia City, in fact, is all about its past. Over the years, the mines of Virginia City produced more than a billion dollars in gold and silver and created more millionaires than television evangelism.By the early 1860s, Virginia City had grown into one of the most cosmopolitan cities in the West. In addition to having 20,000 residents, the town had an opera house, elegant hotels, banks, businesses, restaurants and churches.Despite a disastrous fire in 1875, which destroyed more than 33 blocks, Virginia City has survived into the 20th century with most of its 19th century charm and appearance intact.Walking its uneven wooden sidewalks under drooping awnings, you can imagine you’re retracing the footsteps of young Sam Clemens, when he was writing for a local newspaper under the pen name, "Mark Twain."Several of the mansions of Virginia City’s mining magnates remain standing and a few are open for visits. For instance you can tour the red brick Mackay Mansion, originally the headquarters of the Gould & Curry Mine, then the residence of John Mackay, one of Virginia City’s fabulously wealthy silver kings.The Presbyterian Church on C Street, built in 1867, was one of the few structures on that block that didn’t succumb to flames during the fire of 1875. Down the hill is the magnificent St. Mary’s in the Mountains Catholic Church and the St. Paul’s Episcopalian Church, both rebuilt to their previous splendor in the years immediately after the fire.No visit to Virginia City should overlook Piper’s Opera House, located on B Street. Built in 1885, the present wooden building, which is being restored, hasn’t changed much since the days when its stage hosted touring performers, including such 19th century luminaries as Lillie Langtry and John Philip Sousa.Virginia City’s C Street is lined with small shops offering souvenirs, antiques, homemade candy and fudge, t-shirts, restaurants, small museums and a handful of saloons.But in the end, the real treat about visiting Virginia City isn’t the fudge and t-shirt shops, although they are fun. It is being able to explore a place that has hung onto history and maintained its unique, frontier character.—-Richard Moreno
